I spent most of yesterday working on my trouser muslin after reading all of the Sew-Along information that the Cupcake Goddess’s has been posting this last week.
My earlier post was my starting point. Whilst I don’t want to bore you with what you might know, I found it very interesting to see the results as I did minor changes so I am warning you now that this is very photo heavy.
The Amazing Fit Patterns are chosen by your Body Measurements e.g Total Crotch Length and Back Crotch Length and it is these 2 figures that you use to determine whether you are Slim, Average, Curvy and this determines your pattern size which had me use 10 Slim. The trousers also sit 1.3cm or 1/2″ below your waistline.
The first alteration I did was take a 6mm (total 1.2cm) or 2/8″ tuck in the crotch depth which gave me a much better crotch depth:
The next alteration was to take 6mm or 2/8″ off the inseams both front and back which took out the excess fabric in the legs, again much better:
Now I still had a baggy back so this is where Pants for Real People (page 38) advise you to pull the centre back up until they disappear, and they DO, can you tell I’m rather surprised.
Thankfully DH had arrived home so I asked him to draw on the muslin where the elastic was now sitting in relation to the thread marking that I had done initially and it was 2.3cm or 7/8″ that needed to come off the centre back.
As these trousers have a contoured waistband, I thought a sway back adjustment of 1.2cm (total 2.4cm) or 1/2″ would work, but I’m not sure about that as the pictures below show I’ve still got some wrinkles in the back. The front smile lines are because I was sitting in them for hours very comfortably.
I think I need to:
- make a new muslin (have been adjusting the original) with the alterations I have done so far, but first,
- read further into Pants for Real People and see if they deal with this adjustment for a contoured waistband as so far they are discussing a normal 2.5cm or 1″ waistband and they just take it from the top of the trouser.