Tag: Stash 2014

The Shirtmaker Dress Journey

On By Sharon19 Comments

It all started when I saw this outfit on Lori’s blog, Girls in the Garden, about 2 years ago.

I used the same slate blue linen as my Navy skirt which I purchased from Tessuti in 2013 and seeing I had already made McCalls 5433 back here  my main patterns adjustments were already done.

Just before I cut this out, Louise, from Seams Like Fun (and I  had the pleasure of attending her class at the ASG Convention last month) posted Shirt Collars Made Easy.  Of course this had me downloading the instructions as I have only completed one other shirt collar and any tips to make it easier I was keen to try.

For this version I was looking for it to be able to be worn alone during Spring and Autumn and even Winter with a light layer (spencer) underneath.

To give me a bit more warmth, I decided to line the body of the shirtmaker dress only as I wanted to roll up the sleeves so using the sleeves from view D I added 1.5cm to each side of the sleeve hem width as well as another 4cm to the length.

This was all cut out and fused (collar, collar stand and front bands) for our sewing weekend back in May.

For some reason I decided to go all out and do flat felled seams on the side seams, the shoulders and the sleeves.

The lining has French seams and this was attached to the body of the dress after the dress length was finalised and before adding the front bands, so I could encase the edges.

The lining was then basted to the neck edge so I could add the collar stand.

Louise’s  instructions for the Shirt  Collars Made Easy has the ends of the collar and collar stand on the fold so you end up with a centre back seam and hopefully better points.

Oops not quite matching!

Once I inserted the sleeves, I basted the lining to the seam allowance and then added a Hong Kong finish to this seam as it was too tight to to a flat felled seam.

Now to be able to roll my sleeves up, the sleeve width at my cuff was not desirable.  This time I found this great Threads article on Shape a Sleeve with this Easy Fold-Over Placket that provided the perfect solution.

Threads do suggest you make the vertical fold for the placket about 1/3 of the way from the underarm seam, however this put the fold right on my wrist bone which I didn’t like, so my sleeve width was 28.5cm and I put my vertical fold at the half way mark which makes the fold toward the back of my sleeve.

Again the wonderful ladies at All Buttons Great and Small helped me choose the buttons and I again purchased the buttonholes from Mick at Quick Buttonhole Service.

and now for some full length views:

I still might add some darts to the back!

It looks like I can have quite a few different looks with this shirtmaker dress depending on the sleeve length and whether or not I wear a belt and switch around my accessories!

Now to find a triple belt and animal print bag that are in the inspiration picture!

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2014 Stash Out: 34.95 m
2014 Stash In: 48.75 m

Accent Cardigan

On By Sharon19 Comments

I love cardigans and it so hard to find ones that I really like.

So when I saw this amazing sweater knit fabric in Adelaide in 2012 it just had to come home with me.

Blue, caramel, cream, rust, brown sweater knit

The next decision was how I was going to make this work with Jalie 2566 as my previous versions here and here are made from knits that are a lot thinner.

I decided to do the following:

  • Not add the neck band facing at this would be too bulky, so I added 3.5cm to the neck edge.
  • As this knit does not have a lot of stretch, I added 1cm to the side seams as well as the sleeve seams.
The cardigan was sewn with navy thread on my trusty 4 thread Singer Overlocker and to keep the seams flat I whipped stitched them down.

 the colour is really wrong in this photo!

and now they are almost invisible in the cardigan

To finish the neck edge I fused some 2.5cm wide stabilising tape to the edge and then sewed some purchased bias binding, turning it to the wrong side and hand stitching it in place.

The lovely ladies at All Buttons Great and Small at Newtown found these gorgeous buttons for me and then I again purchased the buttonholes again from Mick at Quick Buttonhole Service at Alexandria.

and finally,

I’ve realised I need some new necklaces that will fill the “v” for when I want to wear the cardigan buttoned up.

This cardigan has turned exactly how I wanted it to.  I’m not sure how much wear it will get this year now that Summer has arrived with haste!

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2014 Stash Out: 32.2 m
2014 Stash In: 48.75 m

Navy linen skirt – Vogue 1247

On By Sharon13 Comments

As promised back here, here is the navy linen skirt that is part of my “Starting from Scratch Wardrobe”.

This skirt was cut out, along with the shirtmaker and cardigan for the sewing weekend I attended back in May.  Both the shirtmaker and the skirt are from a gorgeous slate blue linen purchased from Tessuti in 2013.

One of the things I like to look out for during craft shows are fat quarters that can be used for pockets and this one was perfect for this skirt.

I did manage to get the skirt sewn up to hemming during the sewing weekend, and it has been hanging around for a few months now waiting to be finished.

Oops I forgot to pull my top down!

The skirt is lined as well as using the twill tape for the waistband.

This is the third time I have used this pattern, the others are here and here and I imagine there will be a few more as it doesn’t take too much fabric and the pattern pieces easily fit on those odd scraps left over from other garments.

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2014 Stash Out: 30.95 m
2014 Stash In: 48.75 m

Steel Blue Strathcona Henley

On By Sharon17 Comments

Another year and another wedding anniversary gift for Mark, my husband, and this year the modern gift guide suggested textiles, fur.

I did for a fleeting second think of making Mark a woven shirt, but once I spied this wool knit (that had been in my stash since 2010) and remembering that I had also purchased the Parkland Selection from Thread Theory, the Strathcona Henley was the winner.

Based on Mark’s measurements I cut out a medium.

It wasn’t until I sat down and started to sew this, that I realised I was doing my first buttonhole placket on a knit! Thankfully the instructions for this were quite good and using a lot of basting I was very pleased with how it turned out.

There was no way I was going to  do the buttonholes, so I again purchased them from Mick at Quick Buttonhole Service at Alexandria.  I couldn’t believe my luck in finding the perfect buttons at Spotlight.

The Strathcona Henley is a “modern”, “slim-fitting” t-shirt and I chose to make it with long sleeves seeing the fabric was a wool mix. I did have a bit of concern when I had all but the hem done that it was going to be too big, however when I measured it against one of his current t-shirts it was a slightly slimmer fit but the length seemed a bit long.  I did cut off 4.5cm from the length and that left me with a 2cm hem.

It looks like it’s a winner, it has had a few outings already!

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2014 Stash Out: 29.35 m
2014 Stash In: 47.25 m

I’ve got pockets! Make a Garment a Month – August completed!

On By Sharon11 Comments

The track pants I made back in April have been in high rotation with the cold winter mornings we have been experiencing.

It was time to make another pair!

I found this useful tutorial that helped me draft a slanted pocket and then I found this great fat quarter in my stash for the pocket bags as I didn’t want the extra bulk of 3 layers of fleece on my thighs.

To stop the pockets from bagging I used some cotton twill tape along the edge of the pocket when I attached them to the front pant piece.

Are we going for a walk?

Hurry up Mark!

Next time I will make the pocket bag a bit bigger, but at least now I can carry my phone and keys with me when I take Roscoe for his walk.

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2014 Stash Out: 26.75 m
2014 Stash In: 45.75 m

A new top!

On By Sharon10 Comments

I have a new top for the wardrobe, it is another version of KS 3740 which I have made quite a number of times already.

For this version I have:

  • added a FBA of 1.5cm.
  • reduced the cuff width by 1cm
  • removed 1.5cm from the shoulder seam

These changes will now be in all future versions.

I purchased this fabric from Kerryn’s Fabric World back in July 2010, so it has been slowly maturing in the stash.

The neckline is raised by 4cm from the original neckline and I have again played with my coverstitch machine to do the neck binding.

Not much else to say about this top so here are the photos.

No doubt you will see more of KS 3740!

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2014 Stash Out: 25.45 m
2014 Stash In: 45.75 m

Activewear – Avocado Hoodie

On By Sharon18 Comments

I did it, I have sewn 5 garments this month, this is a first for me!

This is my last piece for the Mini Wardrobe competition, it is the Avocado Hoodie by Seamster Patterns.

With my other two tops being sleeveless, I thought I had better plan a layer piece and the hoodie seemed the perfect thing to make as I could play with the panels for some colour blocking.

The patterns is another downloadable one, and I know putting it together and tracing it off was one of my activities during my week at Thredbo last year 🙂

I traced off a Size 0 and then did the following adjustments:

*  1cm gaposis tuck for the front neckline and 1.5cm round shoulder adjustment on both back and front pattern pieces

*  1cm sway back (not sure why I didn’t do the extra 0.5cm)

I again used the brown Stella Cotton Elastomeric 10% Spandex that I have used for all the other pieces as well as the fabric leftover from this top for the hood lining and side panels.

Last Saturday at my ASG meeting I started to sew this hoodie and finished it on Tuesday night.

The directions are very good, except I had some difficulty with the sleeve cuff. The cuff seam is to meet the notch on the sleeve, however if I did this my cuff/sleeve twisted, so my cuff seam is 1.5cm from the sleeve seam and placed towards the front of the sleeve.

I wanted the hood to be a bit warmer, so I added a lining, cutting out another hood in the top fabric, sewing them together and then top stitching around the edge to keep it in place. I like the pop of colour near my face.

Are we going for my walk?

Okay let’s go!

I am thrilled with the way this Mini Wardrobe has come together, I don’t have to subscribe to the black pants that you find in RTW!

I am also taking this piece as my official completed garment for July!

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2014 Stash Out: 24.1 m
2014 Stash In: 45.75 m

Activewear – Sports Top

On By Sharon5 Comments

Now for the 4th piece in my Activewear Mini Wardrobe.

Back in December, Sandra (Dilliander) one of my sewing buddies introduced a few of us to the Lekala Patterns as she had their Sports Vest with her at our sewing day and was very kind in letting quite a few of us try it on.

The interesting thing about these patterns is that you input your own measurements into the order form and for $2.50 + 50c for the addition of seam allowances you have a pattern that uses your measurements, even some of your basic adjustments i.e. high waist can be specified.

Needless to say that I soon visited the site and downloaded my own Sports Vest to see how it compared to the BWOF or even the Big 4 patterns.

Again, it is another downloadable pattern.  Once I had taped it together and traced off the pattern I did do my standard sway back adjustment.

The fabric for this top is again a combination of the brown Stella Cotton Elastomeric from Standard Knits that I have used for the other pieces for the main front and back panels and the navy Supplex that Sandra and I purchased from Metro Fabrics earlier this year for the side panels and the two yoke pieces.  I have again used the leftover fabric from this top for the neck and armhole bindings.

I had fun again with my Coverstitch Machine:

*  Used the knitbinder to attach the neckline and armhole bindings.

* Put the variegated thread in the looper for the two princess seams.
* Back to brown thread in the looper for the reminder of the hem.

and now some more yoga

I am very happy with how this pattern has turned out, it is hard to tell in most of the above photos, but the top one does show the fit and maybe a small FBA will get rid of those wrinkles, but pretty good straight off the PC.

Today’s photo shoot had hubby cut my legs of for most of the photos, so back to the drawing board and the digital remote tomorrow for the final garment.

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2014 Stash Out: 22.2 m
2014 Stash In: 45.75 m

Activewear – Gym shorts

On By Sharon9 Comments

Here is my 3rd piece for the Activewear Mini Wardrobe, and it is my second pattern from Fehr Trade the  Duathlon shorts

The pattern includes the booty short, biker or capri length and the capri is the type of short that I prefer to work out in, although this winter weather is making me wonder if I should also get the PB Jam Leggings but I will see how I survive for a while first.

These are also made out of the same brown Stella Cotton Elastomeric as my Yoga Pants and I have used some leftovers of this top for the side pockets.

I cut out a size XXS as per my measurements, again scooped the crotch curve lower and after reading a number of reviews I also straightened the hip curve.

Because of the patterned side panel, I only used the brown thread for the cover stitching on all the seams.

The pockets look so tiny, however my iPhone 5 fits very snuggly in there.

How did that speck of grass get there!

Now for some action shots:

For once hubby didn’t cut my head off 🙂

I am very happy to report that I have finished the sewing of the 5 pieces, so I will be back again tomorrow with the 4th garment.

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2014 Stash Out: 21.5 m
2014 Stash In: 45.75 m

Activewear – VNA Top

On By Sharon7 Comments

Now for the 2nd piece of my Activewear – Mini Wardrobe.

This is Fehr Trade’s VNA top, and what I liked about this top is that it has some shoulder coverage.

It is a downloadable pattern which is instant gratification and a very small pattern to put together.  The pieces also let you use small scraps of fabric if you want to do the colour blocking.

I have used again the brown Stella Cotton Elastomeric 10% Spandex from Standard Knits that I made the Yoga Pants out of and then some grass green and navy Supplex purchased from Metro Fabrics.  For the neck and armhole bindings I have used the  leftover fabric from this top.

This is the first time I have used a pattern from Fehr Trade and Melissa has done an excellent job in stetting out all the steps, including some common adjustments that people will need.

I traced off an XXS from my measurements and then did the following adjustments:

*  1cm FBA as per Melissa’s instructions in the pattern sheets as well as my standard 1cm gaposis tuck to the front neckline

*  My standard 1.5cm sway back adjustment but this time I used a new technique that Sandra has been using that also squares the back shoulder.

Melissa has an interesting way to do the neck and armhole bindings, I found that you need to be very accurate with your markings and stitching, but the finished product is very smart.

Now here is the VNA top with my Yoga Pants

Now it is finished, I can see that I need to look at a few things:

*  the shoulder width as the shoulders keep folding in
*  how I can change the back armholes so that it will cover my standard bra (I am wearing a cross back bra) without changing the design line that I quite like.
*  remember to remove the 2cm (1cm gaposis tuck) from the neck band and hopefully this will solve the issue at the back neck or I will need to do a small gaposis tuck there as well.

I will be back tomorrow with another piece.

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2014 Stash Out: 19.8 m
2014 Stash In: 45.75 m