Multi muted V8572

I thought this blouse was finished a while ago but it was one of those that wasn’t quite right.

The fabric was in my stash and I can’t remember where I purchased it from but the colours in it means I can wear it with navy, brown and olive skirts.

I ended up doing a burn test to work out what it might be and it is pure polyester although I find it quite comfortable to wear in the heat we have been having recently and it drapes well.

I have:

–  put an invisible zip in the left hand side seam

–  a tiny bias neckband, stitched on by machine and then handstitched in place



I wore it a couple of times and it just didn’t look right and finally realised it was too long, only by 1cm but that perfect length was not there. 

So I took the hem up and I thought I had a new top to wear.  Not so!

On my pattern I had noted to shorten the back darts after seeing the pictures of this top, however I also did the same to the front darts (my blog post did say back only) which was a mistake as the top was falling away from my body, not a look that I like.

The top sat around for a few more weeks before I lengthened the front darts into the hem.  I am glad I persisted in getting this right as it has been a great addition to my wardrobe.

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2019 Stash Out: 1.5 m
2019 Stash In: 0 m

Taupe knit top – V8572

If you follow me on Instagram you may have seen this back in October 2017, it had just been finished but as it was a winter top, it went straight into the wardrobe to wait for the weather to get cool enough to wear.

Fast forward to last weekend, the weather had turned nice and chilly and my top had it’s first outing at the Annual Australian Sewing Guild Rhodes Fashion Sewers Sewing Retreat at The Tops Conference Centre at Stanwell Tops.

This fabric was purchased in the USA in 2011 from the same shop the fabric for my Skewed Cowl Collared Top but this one was a very stable knit.

Working with my V8572 my TNT Woven top I:

*  Bound the neckline with the A Binder on my Coverstitch

* split the side seam 12cm above the pattern hem, also offsetting the front and back hems by 1.5cm.

* used my Coverstitch again to do the hems, and when I came to the corners I raised the needles, keeping the longer needle just in the fabric, pulling some thread forward, turning the fabric and started sewing again, this kept it all very even.

Now to work out what other garments this top goes with in my wardrobe.

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2018 Stash Out: 1.5m
2018 Stash In: 0m

Pleather and knit top

We are going to have to do something about the lemon tree!

The inspiration for this top came from this top pinned that I pinned 2 years ago from Lafayette 148 New York and have been meaning to make it for ever.

Kerryn’s Fabric World sent me some swatches back in 2012 and they had this Polyester Spandex that has a leather look to it that just had to be added to my stash.

It has a knit backing but has no stretch to it at all.

Then when I made my Drapey cardigan back in January, I realised that the merino wool looked pretty good next to the Pleather.  So with some very careful cutting out I managed to get the cardigan as well as the back and sleeves for this top using KS 3740.

As the Pleather is essentially a woven fabric, I used Vogue 8572 my TNT woven blouse for the front, but wanted to add princess seams to it as well.

This was the 2nd item that I packed to work on during the Sewing Weekend in Brisbane and after I finished my cardigan I then started work on this top.

First up I traced off the front of V8572 and then proceeded to add armhole princes seams + 6mm seam allowance (so I wouldn’t get confused between the two patterns).

Original front pattern

Armhole Princess Seams added

I cut out the front and then basted the front and back together to check the fit.

There was quite a bit of excess fabric above the apex curve and as I could see this myself I didn’t take any measurements to put back on the pattern so I am not sure how much we ended taking out or how much we smoothed out the curve 😦

The back was a different matter,

So I took out a 1,5cm dart at the neckline down 8cm and then took a 2mm seam all the way down the centre back so from the right side it looks like I have a centre back seam

The rest of the top went together very well, I added a knit neckband to the neckline and then used my Coverstitch to finish of the neck edge.

As well as all the hems

Of course I have finished this right as the weather is starting to warm up but the top had its first outing to the ASG Industry Day at Simplicity Patterns yesterday which is in a big tin shed and this top kept me very comfortable.

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2016 Stash Out: 13.7 m
2016 Stash In: 18 m

Taupe shell top

I found myself very short of summer tops for work this year, and the paisley rayon’s I purchased recently had been earmarked for this hole in my wardrobe.

The first one is using my TNT top pattern, Vogue 8752 (OOP) which I am still fine tuning as my body changes as the years go by.

 The last lot of changes happened after a workshop at our ASG group back in July last year about armscye/sleeves by Anita McAdam who owns Studio Faro.

Anita suggested we bring/wear a top/blouse that we wanted help with, so I chose to use my TNT top and wore this yellow top.

Over the  years I have made a number of adjustments and it was the cream silk version that I made the round shoulder adjustment to my sleeve pattern and I was pretty pleased with that but I still get some stress lines around the armscye.

Anita suggested I also needed a forward shoulder adjustment and I have gone about it as follows:

1.  On the sleeve pattern I folded out 1.2cm on the back armscye and added 1cm wedge to the front armscye.

2.  I then did the corresponding adjustments to the front and back pattern pieces.

Front

Back

I didn’t expect this fabric to fray like it did after I put the invisible zip in, so

I did a Hong Kong finish on the seam allowances

and then did French Seams for the shoulders and right side seam.

I told a sewing friend that I used bias strips of organza to insert my sleeves, so thought I would try and explain it here.

*  After doing French Seam on the sleeves, I

*  took a 4cm wide bias strip of organza and placed this on the wrong side of my sleeve cap, starting at the dot and lowered the needle, with my machine on baste stitch, I put pressure on the bias strip as I stitched it around to the other dot,

and when you finish your sleeve already has a very nice shape to the sleeve cap.

*  and you can also use the basting stitches to put in more ease or reduce as necessary.

*  once the sleeve is in place, I cut out the silk organza bias strip.

Then to finish off the sleeve I added a Hong Kong finish to this seam.

and here is the completed top.

I’m not sure what is happening to the sleeve, even though I took out a wedge from the back armscye, it looks like there is still too much fabric.

Oh and I forgot to shorten the back darts, that would have given me just that bit more room at the back.  The pattern is now noted for next time.

Now off to work.

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2016 Stash Out: 6.1 m
2016 Stash In: 15 m

Yellow Blouse – April Garment a Month – completed

Back in January Alison and I joined the ladies at the ASG Frocks Group at Bateau Bay to attend a Confident Coverstitch – Techniques and Attachments Workshop run by Baby Lock.

The workshop book is based on the Baby Lock Coverstitch models, however there were quite a few of us with the Janome Coverstitch and our teacher, Michelle was very knowledgeable about both brands of machines.

I love my Coverstitch and do use it for all my knit hems but I wanted to learn how to use it better as well as getting to understand the knit and woven binders I had purchased previously from Sharp Sewing Supplies.

As you all know I love my TNT top pattern and had purchased the 3/4″ woven binder (finished width) particularly for this blouse.

It did take me a little while to get it working and I was very lucky that Alison had taken her Coverstitch to our ASG Group at The Remnant Warehouse the other Saturday and I was able to play with the binder with some scraps of fabric on her binder whilst I was sewing the blouse together.

Once I got back home, I settled down with my machine to finish the construction of the blouse as follows:

–  Sew the darts and press.

–  Sew the right shoulder seam and press (leaving the left shoulder seam open).
–  Edge stitched the blouse neckline.
–  Cut a 4cm bias strip which I then pressed in half as my binder is a A binder (raw edge) and I didn’t want that sort of finish for this fabric.

–  Attached my Janome extension table.
–  Tightened the foot pressure knob to a height of 1cm.
–  Threaded the Coverstitch for a chain stitch e.g. single needle.
–  Set up my binder and fed the bias strip through and under the needle and did a few stitches.

I still had the 2 needles in at this stage.

–  Then I set up my fabric so that it fed half way up the binder, this worked best for me.

–  Sew the left shoulder seam and pressed, and then hand stitched the binding edges down at the shoulder seam as the binding ended up quite thick.

–  Put in the invisible zip in the left side seam, sewed the right side seam, put in the sleeves and did the hems.

    Debbie Cook has some fantastic information about Coverstitch machines on her blog.

    I have also managed to sew something that fits with the Stashbusting theme this month, COLOUR!

    Note: I have managed to get a photo of the neck binding for those interested.

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    2014 Stash Out: 7.6 m
    2014 Stash In: 31.75 m

    Cream Blouse – January Garment of the Month completed

    The Make a Garment a Month is having themes this year and for January it is a new skill, a old pattern seen anew, or a new wardrobe plan.

    I am going for an old pattern seen anew, this is my trusty blouse pattern Vogue 8572 (OOP)  but this time I am seeing it in a very different light due to the reasons below.

    Following on from my last version, this time I have made the following adjustments:

    *  I moved the bust dart up by 1cm e.g. moved 2cm from the very original position.
    *  Levelled the dart as per Vicki’s comment.

    I am much happier with the look.

    I also said that the sleeves were giving me trouble, but after reading about Lisa’s lace blouse I ended up at Handmade by Heather B and her photographic tutorial on how to do the Forward Shoulder Sleeve Adjustment that Gigi Louis had posted a tip about on Pattern Review.

    I have been doing a forward shoulder adjustment for years, and have tried unsuccessfully to reshape the sleeve head but always had excess fabric in the back as well as getting the sleeves to sit nicely.

    So I followed Heather’s photo tutorial and changed my sleeve pattern and it now looks like this.

    I knew that I had enough silk left over to either cut out a pair of my old sleeves (original pattern still intact) or bias strips to make the blouse sleeveless.

    For the first time ever, my sleeves went in the first time, no excess fabric giving me grief and in silk, I am ecstatic!!

    Now I need to do this adjustment to all my sleeves, I wonder if this will fix the twist I get in my knit top sleeves!

    This blouse ticks a few commitments:

    • is my 2nd piece for my first 3 pac for SWAP 2014.
    • my completed January Make a Garment a Month
    • is my IttyBit for the Stash 2014 sewalong as I used under a yard and it was leftover from my jacket.

    I am also wearing my new brown wool skirt and will share more details about it soon!

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    2014 Stash Out:    0.8 m

    2014 Stash In:      19.25 m

    November garment of the month – finished!

    I did it, a bit late posting, however Vogue 8572 (OOP) has been made up using the damask fabric.

    This fabric is a lot thicker than my previous versions and it shows a completely different type of fit which is interesting to me.

    For this version:

    • I moved the bust dart down 3cm, and I can’t make up my mind if it is too much or not, and
    • Piped the neckline and sleeve hems
    The sleeves in this thicker fabric did cause me a lot of thought and fitting.  There is a fold of fabric at the back of my sleeve above and then when you look at the back view below, there seems to be excessive fabric all through the back and something funny is going on with the right sleeve.
    Even with this being not as perfect as I would like, it is definitely wearable and will be a good staple in my wardrobe.

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    Stash Out:   26.35 m

    Stash In:     24.3 m

    A lacey top

    The last month has been absolutely crazy due to work however I have been able to get 10 – 15 minutes most mornings in my sewing room and this is the result.

    This fabric has been in my stash since 2009 when my sewing buddies and I  headed to Melbourne for 4 days of fabric shopping.

    Then when I decided to do an “Evening Collection” for my SWAP this fabric just had to have its day.

    I took me a while to work out what design I wanted to use and it was during one of my Pinterest sessions I found this wonderful top by Lover and realised that the lines were very much the same as my TNT blouse pattern.

    Luckily the lace has a two way pattern, so I could use the scallop edge effectively for all the pieces.

    Again there is not much to tell on this blouse, except I have used French Seams, a purchased satin bias tape for the neckline, Hong Kong finish for the armholes using sun silky, with an invisible zipper in the left hand side seam.

    And here it is:

    Nearly the same pose!

    Satin bias tape binding on the neckline
    Satin bias tape handstitched to the wrong side and french seams
    Hong Kong finish on invisible zip and armholes

    This is my 6th piece for SWAP, I really need to find some more time to sew, especially as the Trench has only been cut out!

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    BTW, due the amount of spam comments I have been receiving I have changed my comments to be moderated and may have to stop allowing Anonymous comments. Deleting the spam comments is not a fun part of blogging.  
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    Stash Out:  6.65m
    Stash In:  0

    Lemon Peplum and Suede Skirt

    I have joined the large number of people at Pattern Review to make the peplum blouse Vogue 8815.

    After reading the pattern information and checking out all the reviews, I noticed that the peplum starts 1″ above your waist and I wanted mine to start on my waist.

    I decided to make up a quick muslin of this top and found the following:

    • The waist/peplum seam does sit on my waist, no adjustment!
    • It needed a square shoulder adjustment of 8mm (1/2″)
    • Took out 1cm (3/8″) from the underarm tapering too nothing at the waist
    • Changed the neckline to that of my Vogue 8572 blouse

    This lemon fabric is Vienna, 100% polyester purchased From Kerryn’s Fabric World in 2010 and this colour works so well in my wardrobe and you have seen it before here.

    The pattern instructions have you finish the armholes, neckline and hem with purchased bias binding, so I have cut bias strips and used my Clover 18mm bias tape maker to make them as there was no way I was going to get bias to match this colour.

    As this fabrics frays madly, I have used French Seams and added a Hong Kong finish on the zip seams.

    The hem is on the bias so I have finished this the way that the Vogue instructions advise.

    This is my 3rd top and final top for the Everyday Collection of my SWAP, so I now need to focus on the 2 bottoms for the Everyday Collection.

    The skirt I am wearing is my Self Drafted Skirt pattern and I have used a brown suede like poly spandex fabric from Kerryn’s Fabric World purchased June 2012.

    The lovely thing about this pattern is that I managed to cut it out (fabric and lining) before heading off to one of my ASG Groups and had it completed (including attaching the lining) ready for the hem to be levelled by my DH so I could finish of the hems.

    What I forgot was that this skirt used to sit on my hips and seeing I had adjusted this pattern the same way I did this skirt  my hem allowance ended up being a mere 1.5cm oops.  I prefer a hem allowance of at least 3cm, so off to Spotlight to purchase some 25mm brown bias tape.

    I finished the hems for both the skirt and lining as I have for all my skirts.

    This skirt is my first piece for the Evening Collection of my SWAP.

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    Stash Out:  Skirt and Top = 1.6m (not including lining)
    Stash In:  0

    Tangerine Alma Blouse

    When Sewaholic announced her new pattern, the Alma Blouse, I was very tempted as the cute neckline on View A had me intrigued so when the special was on, I jumped at the chance to purchase this pattern.

    Due to the fitting issues I had with the Minoru and not being a pear shape, I realised that the Alma Blouse is very similar to my very modified TNT blouse, Vogue 8572 (OOP).  I traced off another copy of my TNT blouse pattern and then added the neckline detail from the Alma Blouse as well as drafting the facing pieces.

    Next up was what fabric to use.  I’ve had this piece in my stash since 2003 so thought it would be a good time to use it as it was one of the 2012 Pantone colours (better late than never).

    I’m not sure what the fibre content of this fabric is but polyester seems a very good choice, it takes a lot of pressing to get reasonable looking seams or darts using steam and a clapper and it frays like mad.

    However after all of that I am rather pleased with this blouse.

    The creases are from wearing this top all day.

    This is my 2nd piece completed for SWAP 2013 – Everyday Collection.

    It wasn’t until I typed up this post that I seem to have a bit of a citrus theme going on, so do I continue it with the lemon blouse or make the brown denim style skirt out of linen?

    I wonder which it will be Skype Emoticons