Chanel inspired workshop

Back here I mentioned that I was working on a 2nd Chanel inspired jacket and I am now happy to say that the jacket is finished.

Now it all started back in October 2012 when I saw an advert in Dressmaking with Stitches magazine.

Rita Camastral from Ricama Fabrics had written a 2 part article for Dressmaking for Stitches, Volume 20, Issue 7 and Volume 20, Issue 8.  Then in Volume 21 Issue 2 Rita advertised this workshop for early 2013 and I very quickly contacted Rita to find out about attending.

As the workshop was being held in Brisbane I chose to only attend the main workshop that was over the weekend of 9/10 March and Rita was very generous in sending me the pre-workshop information as well as samples of her tweeds and gro-grain ribbons.

I also did some shopping and found this perfect cotton tweed at The Silk Shop

and purchased this silk crepe de chine and the foldover gro-grain ribbon directly from Ricama Fabrics.

This workshop is a technical workshop and because my fabric didn’t fray I had all my pieces cut out and the edges fused as per Rita’s instructions (this is very different to the LFJ). The other advantage about the workshop being held in Brisbane is that I could stay with my sister, so before I headed off to the workshop on the Saturday morning we overlocked the jacket edges and cut out the silk ready for quilting (again following Rita’s notes).

By the end of Saturday I had machine stitched the side backs to the back, the front sides to the front – this left the side seams open as well as stitching the 3-piece sleeve seams leaving the under seam open for both the Tweed and Silk. My homework that night was to tack the silk lining to the tweed ready for quilting the next day.

On Sunday I started quilting the silk to my sleeve and then realised that if I focused on the sleeve for the remainder of the day it would have me accomplish:

  • Sewing the last seam of the tweed
  • Finishing the silk lining on the seams
  • Adding the bias binding edge to the sleeve vent.
  • Adding the special gro-grain ribbon (it has a groove in the centre) which will bind the whole jacket. 

For the remainder of the Sunday, I then worked on quilting the remainder of my pieces and then proceeded to tie-off the ends in-between the silk and tweed by the time the class finished.

It was at the beginning of October that I picked up this project again.

At the workshop Rita also gave us cardboard templates for the sleeve edge and neck edge for us to pre-shape the gro-grain around the corners with the addition of some small gathering stitches.

Whilst working on the jacket I realised that I needed some additional trim.  I found this rather challenging and even pulled a lot of threads and crocheted a trim but it needed some additional threads to make it better.

Crocheted trim from threads pulled from fabric

When I was at the ASG meeting at The Remnant Warehouse I found this trim and Patricia suggested I place it on the edge, perfect.

Purchased trim

Once the trim was hand sewn in place, I headed to All Buttons Great and Small at Newtown and let the girls find all the different buttons that would be suitable for my jacket.

Then it was off to see Mick at Quick Buttonhole Service at Alexandria to get the 7 buttonholes stitched, which cost $27, very good value in my mind. I waxed my thread and sewed the buttons on.

Finally the chain was stitched just on top of the gro-grain ribbon at the hem edge.

and a few more views:

oops I must have moved!

This will be my first piece for SWAP 2014 – “if you have an item you’re working on now, you may include it as long as it is completed before the official sewing date of 26 December 2013.”

It is also my first piece to be completed for my December Garment of the Month, now to get my skirt hemmed!

I also must thank one of my lovely sewing buddies for loaning me her copy of Claire B Shaeffer’s book, The Couture Cardigan Jacket it was a wonderful resource.  Fingers crossed my 2nd copy arrives, not sure what happened to the first one.


Stash Out:    29.45m

Stash In:      24.80m

Little French Jacket

It had to happen, I knew as soon as I saw this silk mix it would be another jacket and guess what I have found, the Little French Jacket sewalong.

The icing on the cake for this sewalong is that both of the organisers, Leisa from A Challenging Sew and Inna from Thewallinna have both attended Susan Khalje’s – classic French Jacket course and Susan Khalje has also offered to consult along the way!

I would love to attend one of Susan’s classes but at this stage that is a dream so even though I have plenty of projects on my wish list, I’ve decided to join this one as well.

There have been a number of discussions so far and the schedule has been posted. 

I’m going to use Vogue 7975 again, it has been fitted for me and so far I have made two Chanel inspired jackets from this pattern (well the 2nd one is progressing) so I am not going to do the muslin that started on October 7.

Seeing I’m not 100% certain what else is mixed with the silk, I will do a burn test and then figure out how to pre-treat the fabric.  The girls at The Remnant Warehouse did advise not to dry clean it as they felt it would loose some of its lovely hand.

It will be fun working out what colour the lining will be, looks like I need to go shopping and I’m not even sure where to start with the trim!

Chanel Fabric

I have found my fabric for my Chanel Jacket.

I visited The Fabric Store last Friday afternoon and found this wonderful tweed and it was on sale as well.

It has a cream base with mauve, aubergine, brown through it and it really lifts my aubergine wool. I’m so happy.

I am trying to find some interesting lining to use. I keep changing my mind about my trim, will I use the fringed edge or braid. I have 2 Chanel jackets and they both have braid and I think I do prefer this style.

One of my problems is that I’m having problems finding any trims here in Sydney so if anyone knows where I can look please let me know. My sister is visiting me from Brisbane this weekend, so I will give her a sample of both of my fabrics so she can visit Scakfs Fabrics (who advertise such wonderful trims in the Australian Stitches Magazine) for me when she goes home to see what they can come up with.

Last week this book found it’s way to my home.

I must admit to not reading too much at this stage, I’ve been busy getting my prep week in order for the WiaW.

Go Chanel or Go Home

I’ve joined a Sew-Along for a Chanel jacket. I just can’t get enough of them and the burgundy wool that I purchased when we went to Melbourne just needs a Chanel Jacket to go with it.

I will be using Vogue 7975 as I did for this Jacket which gets worn to all the different activities of my life. I only have a small adjustment to do at the neckline at the centre front, the edges overlap 🙂

One of my sewing buddies has samples of the Linton Tweed so I am keen to have another look at these.

I also really like how Lindsay T has made a Summer Version of the Jacket and this is may be another one that I will make for Summer.

There is so much inspiration on the Go Chanel or Go Home Sew-Along thread that I will change my mind a million times.

June Capsule Contest 2008

I did it!!!
I have been visiting the Stitchers Guild blog for some time now and one of the ladies suggested a “June Capsule Contest” for those that hadn’t completed the 2008 Timmel Swap, or those lurking to join in, so I decided to join in and see how I went. I had always thought about the Timmel Swap however the number of pieces was just too daunting.

The contest rules were:

  • 4 garments and 1 accessory
  • No black
  • There must be at least one top and one bottom
  • All items must co-ordinate
  • One item can be made before June
  • One item can be purchased

Here is what I planned to make and the accessory hadn’t been finalised at this stage.

I really procrastinated for the first two weeks, not a good sign and then started on the Oyster Chamois shell top just before the “Roberta Girls” headed to Ferndale for a weekend of sewing and good food.

On the weekend at Ferndale I managed to sew the Brown Wool Crepe Skirt, including the lining up to hemming stage. I then put the sleeves into the Oyster Chamois and this didn’t look good, pulling around the armholes which I didn’t know how to fix so instead of wasting my time I decided to put this on hold and get on with it. I started the Coffee Knit top and had this well underway by the time we left on the Sunday afternoon.

One of Alison’s friends Susan joined us for the weekend and she does some lovely beading. I showed her my fabrics and this is what she designed/made for me:
I am absolutely thrilled with it. This is officially my purchased item and my accessory.
It is now the 23rd of June and not one items is finished!! The shell tops don’t look like they will be made as there are some fitting issues that I can’t quite work out by myeslf.
I finished the skirt and lining hems during that week.
On Saturday (28 June) the Rhodes Fashion Sewers (ASG group at Rhodes) had invited Angie Zimmerman to join us to work on our pants. Luckily Angie had some time to help with me with the shell top fitting issues and the oyster shell top was back on track.
Unfortunately domestics took over on Sunday so on Monday 30 June as soon as I arrived home I locked myself in the sewing room as I was determined to finish. The oyster shell top had the side zip to be put in, sleeves and hems. DH regularly bought in the chocolate and tea to keep me going.
As I didn’t make the 2nd Shell Top, I was very thankful for the rules allowing a “made before June item” so I substituted this with the Channel Style Jacket that I made earlier. This co-ordinated with all of my pieces so worked a treat.
Now here is the completed ensemble: “Brown is my Thing”

Top:Coffee Knit tee from Kwik Sew 3378 view A.

This was made from fabric purchased in January this year from my local sewing shop. I am wearing a purchased cami underneath.

Brown Wool Crepe from Vogue 7937 view A-B without the belt loops.

This was made from fabric that I purchased from Lincraft and has been maturing in my stash.
The pattern is not lined, however I always line all my garments and then attach lace to the hem for the finishing touch. The back of the skirt has back vents which I have used Hong Kong finishes on the self facings and extensions of the skirt (shown above).

Jacket – Made before June
Brown, blue and green Tweed Jacket from Vogue 7975 view A.

I made some minor changes to the sewing of this jacket e.g. I sewed the tape on the front of the jacket before finishing off the neck or hem edges (I had sewn the jacket front and facing together, trimmed and under stitched so I had an edge to line the tape up to). I didn’t use the ribbon as the closure, I sewed 6 large black hooks and eyes on the jacket so I could close it. The photo doesn’t show the colours in the jacket very well, this is much better

Worn with the Top and Skirt from above.

Shell TopOyster Chamois top from Vogue 8572 (OOP) view C.

This was made from fabric purchased from Martin & Savage the fabric suppliers here in Sydney on an Industry Day with the ASG 3 years ago.

I made some adjustments to the pattern, creating fitting darts both front and back, bust dart and an invisible zipper in the side seam to enable me to get the top on/off.

Worn with the Skirt and the Jacket is draped over my shoulder.

I’m so thrilled to have completed the 3 garments in such as short time as my sewing is usually a lot slower than this.