In our detailed pre-class notes Susan asked us to bring to class “a fitted muslin/toile” and as I shared my plans for this course I did have my 4th toile ready for Susan to fit on our first day of class.
The reason for the 4 toiles is that all of my sewing of late has been using TNT patterns so it has been a very long time since I have tried to get a pattern to fit me.
Therefore this is a very long post about pattern adjustments.
In preparation for my first fitting with Anita from Studio Faro I started with size 6 using my high bust measurement as the starting point.
Then I did the following adjustments:
- FBA of 2cm
- Raised the hips by 5cm
- Raised back neckline by 9.5cm
- Added 0.5cm to each of the seams of the skirt and back to zero at the bodice.
My first fitting with Anita was on 4 December 2016 and as you can see the bodice was snug so Anita suggested I add 0.5cm to every vertical seam on the dress so this makes me wonder if I should have started with the size 8 but then those vertical seams did not affect the shoulders.
So the width was added to all the vertical seams for my 2nd visit with Anita on 8 January 2017 and Anita marked the following adjustments:
- Took 1cm out of the width of the centre front bodice
- Smoothed out the bust curve by 7mm
- Took a tuck from the bodice side front side seams of 11mm to nothing at the bust curve
- Took a tuck of 7mm above the bust on bodice side fronts
- Dropped armhole by 1cm
- Bodice back side took 7mm tuck right across
- Added 3mm at waist edge of Midriff Front and Midriff Side Front taking to zero at bodice edge
- Took 1cm from bodice edge of Midriff front to zero at waist seam
- Biceps adjustment on sleeve back of 1.5cm at hem edge using Fit For Real People on page 171
- Added 9mm at back side and front side seams
- Added 6mm to sleeve centre seam starting at the sleeve hem taking taking back to zero level at the underarm for both front and back patterns pieces
- Shortened the sleeve 3.2cm
- Dropped the armhole by 1cm
- Added 3mm on the front and side front seams from the waist back to zero 13.5cm below
- Took off 1.5 cm from the front centre back to 1cm at side seam
- Took off 1cm at side back skirt to zero at side seam
At my final fitting on 22 January 2017 Anita took a further 0.6cm from the centre front bodice,
and for both the bodice side front and back, reshaped the armsyce and adjusted the shoulder seams.
|V8648 Bodice Side Back|
Finally my 4th toile was ready for my fitting with Susan Khalje on 6 February 2017.
More to follow.
6 thoughts on “V8648 -The Couture Dress with Susan Khalje”
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This is a fairly epic journey you've been on and I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.
This is all amazing. I can't even imagine being able to see where a 3mm adjustment is required! What happens when you recreate the dress in anything other than calico? That's a fabric that, in my hands at least, fits like no other fabric I ever sew with! 🤔
You are putting a lot of love and energy into this project! Looking forward to the finished product.
It looks like your dress will be perfection! I wish I had somebody to help me fit.
I've been hanging out to hear how your classes went. Looks like you have put a lot of work into getting the fit right.