Off-white squares!

I have only completed one Marfy garment before so I thought it would be a good idea to make up a wearable version of Marfy 1913 in a similar fabric to the silk I purchased for this blouse.

First of all I made it up without any of my normal changes in some lining fabric that I have a lot of and soon realised I needed to lower the front neckline by 2cm as it was choking me.

The next problem was the back, I had these drag lines and I wasn’t sure where they were coming from.

tried High Round adjustment but that didn’t work!

Thankfully I had an ASG meeting to attend at The Remnant Warehouse and knew one of my sewing buddies would be able to help.  Wendy quickly pointed me in the right direction and I now know that for this pattern I needed to do the “Sticky Out Shoulder Blade” adjustment  (Fit for Real People, page 125 number 3) as well.

This brown Georgette with off-white squares has been in the stash for a long time, so after putting it through the gelatine mix I started to work on this top.

Over at the Marfy sew-along, Leisa had been given permission from Susan Khalje to post her wonderful tip on how to do the back slit, which is essentially a dart!

French Seams have been used for the shoulder and side seams.

For the collar I used Pro-Silk Organza from Fashion Sewing Supply for the interfacing of the collar (both upper and under) and added a self fabric rouleau for the button closure at the back.

When I attached the collar to the neckline, Leisa suggested that we machine stitch to the gathering and then hand stitch the gathering section.  I did this as my fabric was a bit stiffer (without the gelatine) than the silk and I wanted the gathers to fall softly, which I think they do.  I then pick stitched the collar in place from the right side.

To finish the armholes I cut  2.5cm bias strip of Sun Silky as Leisa explained under the Couture heading, and then pressed this in half, matching the cut edges right sides together, machine stitched this in place and then turned the bias strip to the wrong side and catch stitched it in place.

My hem length was another challenge, I added 8cm to the pattern and then cut off 6.5cm and realised the top was too short for the elastic to be used so this version has no elastic and will only be worn tucked in as it is a bit full around the hips for my comfort level.

After wearing it today, I have realised it needs a couple of extra changes e.g. lower the armhole, add the length back to try the elastic at the hem and add some extra to the armholes to cover the bra straps, but for this version I will add some strap keepers!

I am still very happy with this blouse and was surprised at how well it matched this skirt, so I think this will be my one of the two wild card for SWAP 2014.

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2014 Stash Out: 3.2m
2014 Stash In: 24.25m

Marfy 3 piece suit

I have admired Marfy patterns for a number of years, and even have 2 of their Annual catalogues as well as completing one garment but this was with the assistance of a sewing teacher being beside me as Marfy patterns have no sewing instructions.

Then late last year I found the free Marfy patterns that you can download to print at home.  I just love this suit.

You do need to register or sign in to your account to get the downloads, but that is only your email address and you never know you may want to order a pattern or two!

Then during the final days of the Little French Jacket sew along (I am still going to make mine) Leisa from A Challenging Sew posted that she was going to hold a Marfy Free patterns sew along.  This decision was made after Leisa had received a number of emails asking her to show how to make the various Marfy patterns that she had constructed during last year.  With the free Marfy patterns available the sew along makes it perfect as everyone has the same pattern to work from.

So you know what is next don’t you, I am sewing along and this will very likely be my 2nd 3-pac for SWAP 2014.

Here is my fabric, navy wool which was purchased from the Fabric Cave when my sister and I visited it last year before they moved to their new location at 112 Bowden Street, Meadowbank.  The crinkle georgette silk is from Tessuti purchased last Saturday specifically for the blouse or I have some tobacco silk crepe de chine that would work for the top as well as the lining for the jacket, now that is a thought!

Is anyone else going to sew along?

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2014 Stash Out:    0 m

2014 Stash In:     19.25 m