I made a muslin of the Minoru a while ago and wasn’t happy with the way the sleeves hung. This is my first raglan sleeve pattern that I have every worked with, so I really didn’t know where to start.
Last weekend some of my sewing buddies and I spent some quality time with Angie Zimmerman at her studio in Ingleburn with all of us working on fitting patterns and the first thing I worked on was the Minoru jacket.
It turns out that I need more length over the shoulder, so we:
- Drew a line across the sleeve at the shoulder point and another one down the length of the sleeve.
- Split the sleeve lengthwise from shoulder point to the seam line at the cuff.
- From the centre line cut the shoulder line across to the seam line
- Added 1cm (5/8″) to the width at the shoulder line
- Spread the shoulder line by 2.5cm (1″)
- I also shortened the sleeve length by 5cm (2″)
- The extra amount at the top of the sleeve from these adjustments, we left some of it to be included in the gathers, but did fold back 1.5cm (5/8″) on each edge of the sleeve, you can see it at the top of the photo below.
Here is the the top half of the sleeve pattern, hopefully you can work out what I have done.
Now the adjusted Minoru.
I am much happier now with the way the sleeves hang and the fabric is now cut out and I’m ready to start sewing.
My apologies everyone, I forgot to say that my 6th Garment for the SWAP was the 2nd pair of Jalie Jeans.